I will write what I remember from my experiences to help those who are considering buying it as their first printer.

A few words about my experience:
When I got it, I was a complete beginner, I had never seen a printer before and had no idea how it worked. Now it's been half a year since I got it.
Let's be honest, no matter which printer you get (especially with such a low price), it requires reading (and many mistakes) to understand how to use it.
Initially, I watched many videos on YouTube (in English, there aren't many in Greek) to get an idea of how a 3D printer works in general. Then, I chose this printer and watched many assembly videos from different channels, and realized that there are many people who do it "wrong" or say wrong things, so it requires research.
Be careful with the wheels, do not press them against the edges of the metal, as they can scratch and the rubber won't be smooth, which may cause issues.
When assembling it, you need to spend time on the wheels so that none of them are too tight or too loose. Try to have the same pressure on all of them on the metal.
As for bed leveling, obviously I watched many videos to get an idea of what others do and find the correct way to level the bed and recognize from the print if it's positioned too high or too low.
Attention: when a print finishes, DO NOT try to remove it right away. You need to wait for the bed to cool down to around 30 degrees Celsius in order to remove the print without affecting the bed leveling. If the bed temperature is above 40 degrees, the print won't come off easily. It requires a little patience and it will come off easily after a while. If you don't wait, you will have to level the bed before each print. It's not worth it.

About the software:
After a few prints, I realized that there are better software options, more updated, with more features and conveniences than the default one that comes with the printer. Initially, I tried Jyers, which I kept for about 4 months. It was definitely better than the Creality firmware, but it had some issues, and the developer rarely updated it.
Then I found the Professional Firmware by mriscoc: https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1, which is definitely the best option for this printer, although there aren't many videos explaining it.
To install a different firmware on the printer, it is relatively easy and reversible (if you can find the original .bin file from Creality). Initially, you need to find out the version of your mainboard, either 4.2.2 or 4.2.7. I have 4.2.2. To see how to check it, watch some videos. Once you know that, download the corresponding .bin file from GitHub or wherever it is available. Put it on the SD card, insert the SD card into the printer, and then turn it on. After a while, you will see that it is being flashed. Then remove the card and insert it back into the PC.
That was for upgrading the printer's firmware, but it is also good to upgrade the firmware of the screen, although I think this is more for some icons that may not appear. So you download the zip file: DWIN_SET for this specific firmware, unzip it and throw away the FOLDER (which contains the files) into the SD card (delete the previous .bin from the SD). Then disconnect the screen cable, remove it from the screen, remove the screws from the back and remove the back cover (it requires force). Place the SD card inside the screen (it has a slot for SD), connect the screen with the cable and turn on the printer. Wait until the screen turns purple, wait for a minute or so, and turn off the printer. Remove the card from the screen and delete the files, and you're ready. Screw the screen back and put it back in place.

To revert back to the default Creality firmware, theoretically you do the exact same thing, just with the Creality files, which I have no idea where to find because I won't go back to the original firmware.

Also, whatever firmware you install, it must be specifically for your printer. That is, for Ender 3 V2. And with your version, 4.2.2 or 4.2.7, it depends on what board you have.

My advice is to work first with the original firmware, and then install another one if you like it.

About upgrades:
Initially, I hadn't done any upgrades, but then I needed to. It is very common for the plastic handle of the extruder to break after a while. I installed the Bowden "Extruder Feed Kit MK8 Red - 1.75mm Aluminum" along with the "Capricorn XS Series PTFE Bowden Tubing for 1.75mm Filament".

Attention, when changing the extruder or bowden tube, you need to do e-step calibration and flow rate calibration. It requires some searching on YouTube, but it's not that difficult, just some measurements and calculations.

Recently, I upgraded the bed and installed a magnetic one, specifically a generic "Textured Coated Flexible Steel Plate", plus the magnetic surface that you stick to the printer (in my opinion, you should remove the glass). I got both for 26 euros from a well-known store in Athens.

It doesn't matter that much for me that it's magnetic. Essentially, they advertise it as easy to remove and flex to detach the print. But when you do that, it requires force and messes up your bed leveling. So I don't remove it, I just have it for better adhesion of the material to the bed (I saw a big difference compared to the glass, which I often cleaned very well for it to stick).

Also, do not use glues, sprays, etc. to make the material stick to the bed. If you have the right settings and proper bed leveling, it will stick just fine. One tip is to lower the speed for the first layer of the print in the slicer. I have it at 3 in Cura. And it's worth doing it slowly because it's the most important layer.

Finally, I upgraded the springs under the bed, along with the wheels that you adjust for bed leveling. It is definitely the first upgrade that one should do. I got these: [link to the product].

About Slicer:
I use Cura. The slicer converts 3D files like .stl, obj, etc. into .gcode for the printer to read. It provides instructions on where the printer will move the extruder, how much material it will extrude, etc. While the 3D files cannot be understood by the printer on their own.

So you need Cura or a similar program, and it also requires a lot of experimentation and reading.

About models:
The 3D models that you will input into the slicer can either be created by you using CAD programs or Blender, 3Ds Max, etc., or you can download ready-made ones from Thingiverse, Thangs, etc.

Negatives of the printer:
It does not have a bltouch on its own. Personally, I haven't installed one because it seems a bit complicated, but if it had it on its own, it wouldn't bother me.
You need to upgrade the extruder to a metal one after a while because the plastic one will likely break along the way.
The springs need to be adjusted, as I mentioned earlier. This will make the bed more stable and prevent the bed leveling from easily getting messed up.

Update 05/23: I installed the BL touch 5 months ago and it solved my problems...
Update 09/23: I just received the Ender 3 V3 SE (from the European site of Creality) and it is better and at the same price. It is approximately 4 times faster, but it also has better print quality, even at these speeds... And the V2 is good, I will definitely keep it, but the V3 SE is easier.

First time in contact with a 3D printer.
Very good.
However, it gave me a lot of trouble with bed leveling. Definitely need to change the springs and purchase a cr-touch. Also, even then, pay close attention to the z-offset. A4 paper is not thin enough to measure the distance between the nozzle and the bed.
The solution is to adjust the offset while printing a large square (let's say this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5183995). Once you see the best print, save it there. Lastly, calibrate the e-steps (very easy and crucial). After doing all of this, the results will be impressive. Pay attention to the filament you will use. If it's PLA, it's supposed to stick more easily to the bed at a lower temperature. PLA+ (a much better material) is more difficult, with a higher temperature and an extra layer in Cura depending on the print if it has a small footprint, you're good to go. No need for glue or hairspray. These are for those who didn't do proper bed leveling. There's no need to switch to a glass surface. There are countless videos on YouTube for all of these, but not all of them are reliable, so really do the above steps and you will be shocked by the result. It's a magical tool. However, it's not plug and play. You have to invest a lot of time and spend some extra money on cr-touch and springs.

It is my first printer and it is worth the money, but there are some things that could make it much better at a low cost:
1) Yellow springs for bed leveling are absolutely necessary. They make it much more difficult for the bed to move, so fine tuning is not needed after each print.
2) Speaking of bed leveling, the ManualMesh from Jyers/Marlin's custom firmware is very useful. The bed may be glass, but there are some imperfections.
3) Filler with specific sizes is very useful for bed leveling.
4) After 2 months of using my printer, the plastic extruder from Creality broke. There are metal extruders that, from what I understand, are quite easy to replace.
5) As for the noise, the motors are almost silent. All the noise comes from the fans, which can be made quieter, something I haven't tried yet.
6) One of the first things I did was install OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi, which allows me to send prints directly from Cura and have full control of the printer.
Note: In the slicing program (e.g. Cura), you should select the profile for the Ender 3 and not the Ender 3 Pro, and change the dimensions to 220x220x250mm.