I removed the internal anode, easy installation as long as you have the tools for installation, now time will tell if it does the job.

Easy to replace, you can do it yourself if you have basic tools at home and know how to use your hands. I don't know how well it does the job it claims, I have connected it to the radiator's boiler, I change it every 2-3 years, and I haven't noticed any problems with corrosion in the pipes, so I imagine everything is fine. However, the old ones that I take out and open to see how they are inside seem to be in a terrible condition :)

In a 40k BTU oil burner, it broke down long before the alleged 3-year lifespan. Obviously, that's why they released the A1 plus. In any case, it is expensive for what it offers, considering that the classic anode placed within the circuit costs 2-3 €. On the other hand, it keeps the circuit clean. Nevertheless, the biggest drawback is that you need a multimeter to measure its voltage when you buy it and before you replace it. Voltage below 1 volt means it needs replacement. A new one should have a voltage of 1.3-1.5 volts. If the seller has had it in their warehouse for a long time, it may have already deteriorated by the time of purchase!

There aren't many options. The first option is to connect the device with the magnesium anode in series to the central return line of the Boiler heating circuit, internally. This means that you avoid the Galvanic phenomenon, but it also causes the network to melt, fill up, and clog. The second option is the Stopcor. It is the best option for installation because it connects externally to the Boiler's heating water network without causing any damage. This way, you avoid the Galvanic phenomenon, deposits, and clogs throughout the network (Boiler, pipes, and bodies). The Galvanic phenomenon still occurs in different types of pipes (steel and galvanized), more intensely in copper pipes.