Normally it doesn't deserve any stars, it is unsuitable and dangerous, considering the quality of the cable and the power strip itself. However, since it was given to me as a gift, I didn't feel right throwing it in the recycling, so I tinkered with it a bit to fix it somehow.

Measurements with instruments showed what it is........

At first, although it appears to have a thick cable with a 3-pin Schuko plug with grounding, in practice, when I cut the cable in half, I saw two very thin black wires for phase and neutral, with soft porous insulation and very thin strands, not copper but an alloy that behaves like a spring, definitely under 0.20mm2 cross-section. IT HAS NO GROUNDING AND CAN IN NO CASE HANDLE UP TO 10A CURRENT (2500W), this will catch fire even at 3A current (700W). Also, internally when I unscrewed it, even the switch is fake with a conductive spring, as is the built-in charger with the 6 USB-A ports, which overheats excessively when charging a 5W flashlight and 2 sets of Bluetooth headphones when I tested it before making the modification.

A disadvantage is that it doesn't have a Type C port but 6 simple USBs, and not even one USB gives an older phone 10W.

-- So I thought, so as not to get confused and put heavy loads on it and to make better use of it, to rebuild it from scratch. DO NOT do this at home if you don't know exactly what you're doing, if you're not handy, if it's not unplugged, if you're not careful, and keep it away from children because it's VERY dangerous.

- First, I changed the cable to a bipolar 2×0.75mm2 which can handle up to 1000W. I didn't use a three-wire power cable because I want to use it for phone chargers and devices that don't have grounding (maximum 500W), and from what I saw, the grounding tabs in its 3 sockets are loose and don't make good contact with three-pin Schuko plugs.

- I removed the built-in USB charger and will use it in another project since I happen to be an automation technician, and in the free space now available in the power strip, I fitted a small 18 Watt Type C power delivery fast charger on the bottom side that I opened up. I made the connections to the tabs and the charger, used heat shrink tubing, and similarly on the power cable, tied them with electrical tape and then tire wraps for safety, screwed everything back, and it's ready.

- I removed the switch and kept it for an Arduino project as a 5V switch and not for 230V as it was intended.

Now we have a simple power strip with 3 sockets ONLY for bipolar devices and a maximum safe power of 500 to 600W and a Type C PD charger port of 18W for phones and new devices.

It was tested at full load with 2 PD 65W fast chargers, a 50W fan + the built-in 18W I added, and it had no problem.

With all this modification and the time I spent for this specific, tailored simple use, it is finally worth it.

The conclusions are yours.....