I got this 60cc engine. Very powerful but it has a lot of resistance, it almost pulls your hand off to start. When stabilized on the ground, it won’t start, there’s a lot of resistance, it turns backwards, I have to start it in the air like a ninja fighting with swords. It needs a valve. The primer bulb that pumps fuel into the carburetor, change it immediately with a good brand one, the original is fake, gasoline punctures it, gasoline is toxic now, if it gets on your skin it burns, I used a primer bulb from an Oleomac chainsaw. It has its own clutch shoes on a bar that stabilizes with a screw in the center of the flywheel, they go in and out more easily, but my engine fell and the bar broke like a reed, so I put the old one back, the mechanic put his own clutch shoes, it doesn’t take the others, with one spring, they’re new type shoes with a thick iron pad, the shoes have two springs, when they wear out (which happened in less than a year), the springs come off inside the bell. With the new type shoes with iron pad, you have to raise the idle because when new they touch the bell and when you pull the starter there’s a lot of resistance, the head and the line reel turn together. Even though I used it with a small winding head with a 3.8mm line reel, I ran it hard on ironweed, I ran it so much I could fry eggs on the bell, and the angle grinder risked catching fire. With all the strain, the bell’s teeth got shaved and the drive shaft teeth on the bell side wore down a bit, so I changed the bell and reversed the shaft, putting the worn teeth at the head and the good teeth at the bell. I had put a worn old 28mm stick with a 9-tooth shaft from an old burnt machine. In general, you need to be careful, the high horsepower tends to shave the bell shaft teeth because the engine is strong, and this happens because winding heads with line reels are heavy and throw a lot of line, so with the high resistance, it jerks and heats up a lot. The trick is to use a short line with a universal head with 4 exits so it doesn’t get damaged, doesn’t strain, doesn’t overheat, and doesn’t shave the shaft and bell teeth. I made cuts/grilles in the bell with an angle grinder, like the bells on Stihl machines, for ventilation—a trick to prevent premature bell wear with the new type shoes with iron pad. You have to run the machine at full throttle so the shoes are always locked on the bell and don’t scratch it with throttle opening/closing. The mechanic who put the shoes told me this, and I’ve read it too. The engine is so powerful it tricks you into overworking it, resulting in damage to the weak stick, shaft, and bell. This engine needs a 30mm stick and a 10-tooth shaft from Oleomac and Efco, with a 30mm stick and 10-tooth shaft, like my Efco 53cc with a heavy-duty head (just the head costs €250). I use it on thick bushes with 5mm blue star line from Ama and it doesn’t break, cut, or get damaged at all.
