Sure! Please provide the product review you'd like translated to English. Very powerful, it has such high compression that you have to pull the hand starter with both hands to get it going. The steering constantly turns left, and you have to keep loosening the base from below with the small Allen wrench and turn it straight again. Maybe if we put thicker Allen screws at the base of the steering or if we remove the anti-vibration rubber so it doesn't slip, the problem will be solved. The positives are that it has four base screws for the tank below with a protective mesh and not just two base screws like other brush cutters that crack at the screw base and have fuel leaks. I noticed a small fuel leak above the tank at the point just below the exhaust because the fuel tank is very close to the exhaust and doesn't have a heat shield between the exhaust and the fuel tank like, for example, the Crafts do. Additionally, because the exhaust screws loosened, hot exhaust gases melted the tank from above and opened a small hole, which I sealed with instant glue and aluminum pipe tape, but it didn't hold. The glue didn't stick as the mechanic told me. I had to replace it, and it's not expensive. I glued a sheet of permantite on top of the tank under the exhaust, and the problem was solved. So, as a precaution, if you buy it, stick thermal insulation permantite sheet on the tank under the exhaust for high thermal resistance (it's not self-adhesive) with adhesive tape for pipes, and check after a few hours of work. With the large Allen wrench, we tighten the exhaust screws because even if the exhaust screws loosen a little, hot exhaust gas escapes from the gap. You can hear the characteristic sound of the gap, resulting in significant damage if neglected, melting both the tank and the hand starter and the cover and the wires. Be careful not to over-tighten; don't tighten the screws too much to avoid breaking them because the chassis is aluminum and the bases break easily from the screws. I discussed this with a mechanic dealer who said it’s cheap, and he told me that this is the joy of the mechanic because all of you who go and buy them become our customers when they break, and you come to us to fix them. But I told him again that it’s so cheap that if someone is far from the mechanic and has to spend days going back and forth to the mechanic, one day to leave it for repair and another to pick it up repaired, and if the repair costs much more, it’s better for them not to take it for repair but to leave it aside for spare parts and go buy a new one.
P.S. 1 Even though I don't appreciate the split ones, I read some negative reviews that after a while they have little issues at the joint. From my experience, it gives me the impression that the split one is solid and that the rest of the machine will break down from heavy use before it fails at the joint. Generally, I like that it is split and practical because I can transport it in the trunk of the car without needing to lay down or fold the back seats and without reaching the windshield, and it doesn't obstruct the passenger seat and the back seats like other non-split brush cutters, nor do I need a roof rack, octopus, and ropes for tying and untying. I can also transport it in two pieces on the rack with the moped. I use it as a backup until it cools down after every tank of the large brush cutter, which is 51 cc and 3.5 horsepower, but I also use this budget as a shredder with the same thick nylon line that I put in the large one, 5mm, the blue star from Emak with a universal four-piece head, and I cut with this budget thick weeds and even branches. This nylon line doesn't break at all; the more it cuts, the harder it gets, it doesn't chew, it doesn't choke the machine. It's pleasant to work with this machine because besides being very powerful and multi-speed, it is lightweight. However, it requires attention; fresh fuel should not be older than two to three months because gasoline is absorbent and pulls moisture and water inside it, and the oil-gas mixture should be used within a maximum of 15 days. It’s preferable to mix gasoline with oil on-site. Graphite grease on the head every one to two hours of intensive work and cleaning the filter to prevent dust from passing through because it damages the cylinder and destroys it. Dust requires a filter patent; I also put full synthetic oil in the gasoline from Visko, the cheapest on the market, but it seems to me it doesn't do a good job; it overheats. Brush cutters require more expensive, better quality semi-synthetic branded oils. When the machine operates with a lot of load and not too many revolutions, nor long nylon lines, nor high-tuned heads, but as much as possible lightweight universal heads and as few revolutions as possible and short nylon lines so that it doesn't strain and drop revolutions but instead raises high revolutions and cools down. Also, the revolutions should go up and down so that the spark plug doesn't short-circuit; the up-and-down motion helps it to spin at high revolutions, and the head cuts more effectively. High revolutions are what destroy the wild weeds; my mechanic told me this after destructive failures I didn't imagine. Also, be careful with the hand starter; no sudden pulls, gently pull back until the pulley catches the crankshaft, and then a short, sudden pull until it starts. No long pulls to pull out the rope, and as soon as it starts, we lower the hand starter gently; we don't let it hit the ground. I made the mistake of pulling the hand starter abruptly and letting it go suddenly, which damaged it. It didn't break, but when I pull the hand starter, it makes a lantern-like sound inside and gives the impression that it’s about to stay in my hand. It also has very cheap spare parts, for example. , jaws or hand starter from 13 euros. PS 2 No relation to those sold for 80 euros with a 26mm rod and small angled for lawn and thin fuel tank that punctures after a while, this one has a normal solid 28 mm rod, large angled, and thick durable fuel tank. PS3 for long storage, another mechanic says to drain the gasoline, remove the spark plug, bring the piston up, and pour a spoonful of oil into the cylinder, another old mechanic says to keep gasoline inside and every month or two to add fresh gasoline and just press the bubble, the book says about it, I do what the manual of the machine says, but these machine manuals also say do this, then say do the opposite, and generally, they are also bad copies in some cases, so from believe and do not research. Let's go to believe and research, and not always blind trust
